While hunting months ago for places to visit in Italy, I came across information about mineral and thermal baths and spas that had been part of the Grand Tour of Europe which all sounded fun to visit. Then, while we were in Italy, Gael found information about free thermal baths (meaning they are not part of a resort where you have to pay to use them) at a place called Saturnia. So, on the spur of the moment (ah, complications come from such decisions, as you will see) we set off by train(s) and bus (or so we thought) to get to these baths. It took us quite a few hours.
We booked a room in a beach resort that was “near” the baths. We didn’t arrive until after 9:00 pm, and, discovering by making a phone call to the resort that no buses ran at that time of night nor were we very close to a bus stop anyway, we got picked up at the station by the person in charge that night at the resort. How kind to be rescued (no taxis either!) We didn’t get to see any of the beach resort until the next morning. The ocean was beautiful, but the water and even the air, was cold, so we didn’t stay long on the beach.
Since we really wanted to go to the thermal baths, we had to do some trouble shooting that morning. The information from the hotel booking agency was not that accurate because Saturnia was not all that close to a bus stop either! We ended up going the expensive, but wonderfully comfortable way, of hiring a car and driver. (Don’t ask how much.)
In the photo below, you can see our first view of Saturnia from the hill above. Our driver stopped so we could take pictures.
As we arrived right in the parking lot a short walk to the water, this is what we could see.

With (free) and handy changing rooms, we got in the water immediately. It was perfect, warm and not hot, and lovely light sulfur smell….ah, all was well if you could get one of the small falls of water to land on your shoulders for a massage.



While sitting in the baths, we could look across the water to this beautiful green field. Is that man getting ready to dive in? (What I’m sure he is doing is trying to protect his feet because the rocks were sharp. I would advise water shoes if you are going to this wonderful thermal bath.)

As I walked downstream to see if the water was still warm further away from the cascade, I shot this photo….made me think of someone walking by the Jordan River a couple of thousand years ago. And yes, the water was still warm.

On the way home through the countryside, we enjoyed some beautiful sights (or I enjoyed them while Gael and Susan took a cat nap.)



All in all, a lovely place to go (but complicated to get there).
